Taking the Path Less Traveled

Wild Goose is a 43-foot sailboat and, like her namesake, she has sleek lines and a tough resolve. We traveled 40,000 miles over a six-year period on this boat and amassed a lifetime of experiences. From the people to the places, these are the tales that make traveling on a sailboat worthy. In this blog I'll tell you about our travels on Wild Goose; about the people, the places, the storms, the icebergs, the whales and the pirates. I'll include photos and stories like Violetta, our guide in the jungles of Venezuela. The most beautiful woman I've ever seen who wore short cut-off jeans and sported a 10-inch hunting knife strapped to her leg. With humor, a little advice and some insight, I hope these tales will make you want create adventures of your own.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Wimps, Cheeseburgers and the Duval Crawl



If you’ve never been to Key West, Florida, it’s well worth the effort to get there, especially if you’re tired of snow, cold winds or just need a break from everyday life. You can fly into Miami and drive south on US Highway 1 crossing bridge after bridge, island after island (called keys) for about 130 miles until you reach historic Key West.


Clouds were getting heavy and dark and the winds were picking up as we readied the boat to sail from Dry Tortugas to Key West. Our son, Mat, and several of his friends had joined us for some diving and fishing in the area. We had a great time, but as the sky began to look more ominous, Mat’s three buddies came on deck looking suspiciously sheepish.

“We think we’re going to take the fast ferry boat to Key West and meet you guys there. Don’t worry about us, we’ll be fine in Key West until you get there in a couple of days,” they said. Not one of them could actually look us in the eye, but you could tell they were quite unsure whether we or Wild Goose could make the passage in one piece. I looked over at Mat. He shook his head slowly.

“Not me, guys. I’m going with my mom and dad. It might get pretty rough and I think they could use the help,” he said. My eyes teared up a bit. Though he never showed it, I knew that Mat always worried about us on the boat. He’s an excellent sailor and knew the boat almost as well as we did, but he also knew it’s a big ocean out there that can swallow a small sailboat.

We put the guys on the ferry with a few teasing words like “wimp, but don’t worry about it” and maybe a “chicken-shit” or two, but I knew it was the best choice. Rough seas are challenging enough without having three seasick and puking guys aboard.

We eased out of Dry Tortugas and set a reefed main and half-furled jib. It’s easy to reef your sails in moderate seas, but if you wait until the wind is intense and the boat is pitching back and forth, a trip forward on the deck becomes a risky venture. Experienced sailors will tell you the old adage ‘a reef in time’ means the time to reef is when you first think about it. We had a few hours of good sailing before the seas began to kick up. I went below and secured the last few objects that could become flying projectiles in a storm and cooked an early dinner.

Slowly, the waves began to increase in size and the wind began whipping the crest of each wave into a watery nebula spewing a salty cloud of mist across the deck and dodger. The waves had a short period meaning there wasn’t much distance between each wave. Steep, quick waves occur when the wind is against a current. We had an easterly wind blowing against the Gulf Stream headed in a westerly direction. Instead of rising on the front face, easing over the crest and riding down the back side to the trough, Wild Goose rose up on the wave, crested and hit the face of the next wave. Bam! The bow struck the water like a belly-flop and the boat shook throughout her hull. It sounded like a gunshot traveling through the cabin. She seemed to stop for a few seconds as the noise and trembling dissipated through the water, and then took her place to travel up the next wave and start the process all over again.

At one point, Mat looked up at us and said, “Do you think we’ll make it?” Until that point (and even afterwards), I had not given the possibility that she might break apart a second thought. I trusted Wild Goose. That was good enough for me.

Dominique, The Cat Man
We pulled into Galleon Marina in Key West and Mat’s friends were on the dock with plenty of beer and promises of margaritas later that evening. We strolled along Duval Street (called the Duval Crawl) popping into Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville for a Cheeseburger in Paradise and watched the famous Key West sunset from Mallory Square Dock. The sunset celebration at Mallory Square each evening is a spectacle of jugglers, psychics, animal acts and weird happenings.

 As the sun dipped beyond the horizon, a spectacular glow of bright orange and pink loomed across the sky. A man whipped by the crowd on a motor scooter wearing nothing at all but a pair of tennis shoes. The crowd whooped and hollered and loved every minute of it.

 That’s Key West for you!